Hew Morrison Collection > Piobaireachd

176 Piobaireachd : its Origin and Construction
That was when the Hose with ornamental tops were worn without being folded down.
In our time they are separated, and thus they are more easily adjusted to the proper
length, as well as any Knot being worn with any Garter. Garter Knots should not
be worn too long, but of medium length. For evening, or full dress, the colour of
the Knot should correspond with the Hose. For morning Hose, usually plain red, or
green garter Knots are worn, whatever the colour of the Hose may be.
7. Skean Dhu, i.e., " The Black Knife." It is worn purely as an ornament
nowadays. In the time when the Clan system was at its best, the " Black Knife "
was used in self-defence. When deer stalking on the mountain side, it was used
for skinning the deer, and various other purposes. The Skean Dhu is worn in the
stocking top of the right leg, with about two inches of it visible. The upper portion
of the Skean Dhu is made of carved ebony, and sometimes dark brown deer's horn,
with an ornamental silver head, inset with a cairngorm. The sheath or scabbard is
made of black leather, and mounted with silver. The blade is 3I inches long, and
made of ornamented steel. The top part of the Skean Dhu is often made of white
ivory, with brown leather sheath, but this is outwith the original colour and meaning
of the " Skean Dhu," or " Black Knife." The ivory head would make it " Skean
Gheal," meaning the " White Knife."
8. Brogues are worn with the Kilt for morning or evening dress. They are
made of very fine leather, and the uppers are ornamented all round the sewn parts,
with various-sized punch holes. They are fastened across the instep with a narrow
leather strap and silver buckle, or laces made of silver wire.
9. The Brogue or Shoe Buckles are only worn with full evening dress. The
morning dress Shoes are worn quite plain. The Buckles are attached to the uppers
of the Brogue, just in the hollow below the instep. They should not be worn too
near the toe, as they look out of place. The Buckles are made of silver, and orna-
mented or engraved with ancient Celtic designs. Sometimes they are studded with
Scotch pebbles, which throw out a fine lustre in the sun or night light.
10. The Coat for the full Highland Dress is usually made of black cloth, but
often pipers have it made of green cloth or velvet. When the Chieftain has two
family tartans, in some cases the Kilt is made of one and the Coat of the other. The
Coat is either made in the doublet or Prince Charlie style, with silver buttons. The
Chieftain does not often wear silver braid on his Coat, although in many instances
family pipers do. The Highland Chieftain always wears an open Coat and Vest for
full dress, but, of course, in the olden days, fashions varied. Pipers often wear a
Coat with a Collar close to the neck, covered with silver braid,