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56
CHAMPAGNE FROM
the wine descends, it draws along with it a small
scent of brimstone, which is not very strong, so
as to make it perceivable, and that only leaves
what will give a liveliness of colour: the same
may be done the second time, when they change
the cask, if it has not taken the scent the first
time, otherwise it ought to be drawn off the se¬
cond time without a match, to cause it to lose the
scent of the brimstone, which it ought never to
have. The wines that are thus clear and fine
keep well in the cask two or three years, and hold
their goodness in the vaults and cellars, but espe¬
cially the Mountain wines that have a good body:
those of the River loose their quality in the wood,
and they ought to be drunk in the first and second
year, or else they must be put into bottles. This
wine will keep very well for five or six years in
bottles.”
Bottling.
“ When they have a mind to draw off a piece
of wine into bottles, they put a little syphon of
metal into the cask, which is bent downwards to
strain it into the bottle, under which there is a
tub or bucket, to catch the wine which shall run
over. They stop up every bottle carefully with
a good well-chosen cork that is not worm-eaten,
but that is solid and close. These sorts of fine
corks cost fifty or sixty sols a-hundred. There