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UNRIPE GOOSEBERRIES.
55
they change its place, as well when they carry it
down into the vault, as up into the cellar, accord¬
ing to the different seasons. I have known when
in four years’ time they have drawn it off twelve
or thirteen times, and they pretend that this is
that which preserves and sustains the wine, and
that it has been the finer and the more delicate.
Their opinion is, that the wine is continually
forming a fine lee, which gives it the colour; and
that to preserve it of a good white, it must be
often shifted out of one vessel into another, if it
be not put into bottles; and that there is no rea¬
son to fear that the wine will be weakened by this
means, because the oftener it is removed the oft-
ener you give it a new vigour; and the oftener
it is drawn off the more lively and brilliant is the
colour.”
Matching.
“ And although I have said they should not
brimstone their casks, they do not fail to use a
match of brimstone the first time they change
their vessels: they mingle a piece of thick linen
cloth in the melted brimstone, and then cut off a bit
for each cask of fine wine, about the size of one’s
little finger, and one as large again for every piece
of common wine: they light it, and put it under
the bung of every piece they empty, before that
they have recourse to the bellows: according as