Series 6 > Travels in Scotland 1788-1881

Adam Bald: Journal of Travels and Commonplace Book, 1790—99
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in its outward appearance, that excited our surprise, it is a building in the
Gothick stile, of a bluish stone abounding in that part of the country. Being
situate in the midst of a plain with some large trees scattered about it in the
background cloud capped mountains skirt with extensive woods renders the
situation of Argyle Castle delightfully grand. The inside of this venerable pile is
furnishd in the greatest polite elegance, the walls of some of the rooms are
painted and gilt in a very rich manner, and others coverd with elegant tapestry
and paintings brought from Italy by the present Duke when on his travels. The
family are very attentive to strangers for in order that they may see all the
apartments worth notice, they shift from room to room. Being highly satisfied
and pleased with the inside of the Castle of Clan Campbell’s chief, mounted by
ladder to the top of the battlements where an extensive and picturesque scene
burst on our view. The Loch stretching below us. The beautiful village of
Inverary the metropolis of Argyle, extensive woods, heath cover’d mountains, and
the naked rugged precipices of Glen Croe form’d an interesting landscape. In our
descent pass’d one of the young ladies of the family playing a favourite highland
air on an organ fix’d in the staircase. This musical departing scene heightened the
pleasure we enjoyed in the princely mansion. After leaving the Castle saunter’d to
the summet of the conical Dunicuich. And although 700 feet high, a carriage can
be driven to the top by a road winding along the wooded front, leading to a
Gothic building on the knoll, for the accommodation of visitors, as a shelter from
the precipitation of this humid climate. Here the grandeur of the scenery far
surpasses that from the turrets of the Castle and fully repays the traveller’s climb.
After our descent from Dunicuich traversed other parts of the beautiful and
picturesque policy’s and return’d to our Inn by 5 o’clock to dinner.
Having now accomplished the main intention of our excursion and visit to
Inverary, after a moderate dose of highland comfort, crossed to St Catherine’s on
our return home, after a more pleasant sail across than we had in the morning,
found our way towards Strachur and e’er we reached it a furious storm arose,
which rendered our situation utterly unpleasant. The howling of the wind
through the wooded glen, the splashing of the troubled loch, the beating rain
with the mournful bleating of the fleecy tribe, threw us into despondent reverie
until the appearance of Strachur Inn broke the silent enchantment of Hamilton
which brought to mind his former sufferings, fervently pouring forth his
supplication for a more comfortable berth than in the preceding night we arrived
at the Inn and after some refreshment, Duncan and I anticipating Hamilton's
intentions of dispossessing us of our former beds made a premature retreat to
our Rooms, and left him to muse on the unrelenting conduct of his comrades,
but remembering the adage that self preservation is often a hindrance to