Grampian Club > Scotland, social and domestic

Introduction. 35
cular freens," * as they affectionately termed those who
patronized their taverns.
Drinking was confined to no particular class. All
tippled, from the prince t to the gaberlunzie. Till 1780
claret was imported free of duty ; it was much used by
the middle and upper classes. Noblemen stored hogs-
heads of claret in their halls, making them patent to all
visitors. Guests received a cup of the wine when they
entered, and another on their departure. Claret was
described as a cure for all ailments ; in winter it diffused
warmth, in summer it negatived the bad effects of more
potent beverages. The aristocracy dined early. During
the sixteenth century, twelve o'clock was a dinner hour
in highest fashion. Two o'clock in the following century
was more common among the upper ranks. A later
hour was not adopted till long afterwards. The sub-
stantiate of dinner were consumed without liquor ;
drinking set in afterwards. The potations of those who
frequented dinner-parties were enormous ; persons who
could not drink remained at home. There was a system
of toasts and sentiments, which prevented any member
of the company escaping without his proportion of
liquor. Every guest was expected to name an absent
lady, while to each lady was assigned an absent gentle-
man. Both were toasted in a glass which must
be drunk off, and upturned in evidence of enthusiasm.
The sentiments were legion ; some were coarse, others
ingenious. When the guests were voiciferously cele-
brating the sentiment, " May ne'er waur be amang us,"
there were some in a helpless condition under the table.
A landlord was considered inhospitable who permitted
* Chosen allies.
t James VI. was considerably addicted to intemperance.