Attempt > Volume 1 and Select writings

THE ATTEMPT
135
& to tillage in SMantr.
Such a distinction does the village of Leadhills, in Lanarkshire, enjoy, and such
a peculiarity rendered it an object of sufficient interest to induce a party of us, while
residing at a village in the neighbourhood, to pay it a visit.
As in that primitive locality no conveyance was procurable, we set out on foot
early one forenoon towards the end of August 186—, the air being sufficiently cool to
render walking a matter of little difficulty. The road, after leaving the village, passed
into a desolate region with wild hills on each side, and at the bottom of the valley
flowed a pebbly stream, rendered interesting by the fact that centuries ago gold was
obtained from its soil; and probably those very bonnet-pieces which James Y. showed
to his southern visitors, as the precious fruit of which his then barren country could
boast, owed its existence to this burn. As we advanced, the scene became grander, the
hills having more majesty, and the stony valley more wild ruggedness.
Two or three miles distant from our destination a fresh object of interest presented
itself. Smoke issued from a chimney placed rather curiously on the side of a high hill,
and the busy sights and sounds of industry prevailed on every side. A large building,
a foundry for smelting the lead and preparing it for use, stood in this spot, and it was
strange to observe in this romantic and previously desolate region signs of an activity
which we generally find only amidst the bustle of crowded cities. The cottages of the
labourers were neat and comfortable-looking dwellings of a superior description.
The road, after leaving this little colony, was very steep, and consequently rather
wearisome, but all the weariness that we felt, disappeared when suddenly and
unexpectedly, as such visions usually do, a green oasis in the rocky desert, a smiling
undulating valley, upland indeed, but smiling nevertheless, appeared before our eyes.
Trees were not wanting to render the landscape pleasing, and little heaps of yellow hay
lying on the green grass, though testifying to the backwardness of this elevated district,
gave to the scene an agreeable softness that we had certainly not looked for. The
houses, running in long lines on the sides of the hills, are very numerous, though from
their almost uniformly cottage character, they do not entitle Leadhills to aspire .to any
higher title than that of village. None of the dwellings, however, are of a wretched
description; but, on the other hand, no shops, properly speaking, are to be seen—all
the bread which is purchased by the inhabitants coming from the village where we
were residing, and which is quite a hamlet in comparison with it.