Topographical, statistical, and historical gazetteer of Scotland > Volume 2

106
ST. KILDA.
is said to be of superior quality. Potatoes have
been introduced, and cabbages and other garden-
plants.
There are several springs, which form a small
burn that runs close by the village: this is situated
about a quarter of a mile from the bay on the south-
east, and all the inhabitants of the island live in it.
The number of inhabitants, in 1764, was only 88;
but they were formerly more numerous; and, under
proper regulations, the island might easily support
300. Martin, who visited it in 1690, and who gives
a very interesting account of its inhabitants, found,
at that time, 180 persons ; but, in 1730, one of the
St. Kildans coming to Harris, was attacked with the
small-pox, and died. Unluckily his clothes were
carried to the island next year, by one of his rela-
tions, and thus, it is supposed, was the infection
communicated, which made such havock, that only
four grown persons were left alive. The houses are
built in two pretty regular rows, facing one another,
with a street running in the middle. They are nearly
flat in the roof, like those of the Oriental nations ;
for, as the island is subject to hurricanes, if the
houses were raised in the roof, the first winter-
storm would infallibly blow them down. The walls
are built of coarse freestone, without lime or mortar,
but made solid by alternate layers of turf. In the
middle of the walls are the beds — formed also of stone,
and overlaid with large flag-stones— each capable of
containing three persons, and having a small opening
towards the house. All their houses are divided
into two apartments, the interior of which is the
habitation of the family ; the other, nearest the door,
receives the cattle during the winter-season. The
walls are raised to a greater height than is usual in
the other Western islands. This is done to allow
them to prepare the manure for their fields, which
they do in the following manner. After having
burnt a considerable quantity of dried turf, they
spread the ashes over the apartment in which they
eat and sleep ; these ashes they cover with a rich
vegetable mould or black earth ; and over this bed
of earth they scatter a quantity of peat- dust : this
done, they water, tread, and beat the compost into a
hard flour, on which they immediately kindle large
fires, which they never extinguish, till they have a
sufficient stock of new ashes on hand. The same
operations are punctually repeated till they are ready
to sow their barley, by which time the walls of their
houses are sunk down, or rather their floors have
risen, about four or five feet. The manure thus pro-
duced is excellent, and, scattered every year over
their fields, causes the land to yield large crops.
Though cleanliness is most necessary to health and
longevity, yet, in spite of the practice now related,
and some other equally filthy habits, the St. Kil-
dans are as long-lived as other men. Their total
want of those articles of luxury which destroy and
enervate the constitution, and their moderate labours,
keep the balance of life equal between them and those
of a more civilized country. And though to most
landsmen
", Weary, O weary ! it is to gaze
For years on the blue main.
Bound bounded but by the bright heavens
For which we pine in vain,"
yet none are more attached to their 'natale solum'
than the primitive inhabitants of this remote islet.
Besides the habitations we have mentioned, there
are a number of cells, or storehouses, scattered
over the whole island. These are composed entirely
of stones, and are from 12 to 18 feet in length, and
little more than 7 in breadth and height. Every
stone hangs above that immediately below it, not
perpendicularly, but inclining towards the opposite
side, so that the two upper courses are near enough
to be covered with a flat stone, giving the whole the
appearance of an arch. To hinder the rain from
penetrating this cell, the outward part is covered
with turf, which continues green and verdant for a
considerable time. In these the inhabitants secure
their peats, eggs, and wild fowl, — of which every St.
Kildan has his share, in proportion to the rent he pays,
or the extent of land he possesses. In this, as well
as their ancient customs, they regard with jealousy
any innovation The St. Kilda method of catching
wild fowl is curious. The men divide themselves
into fowling-parties, each of which generally consists
of four persons distinguished for their agility and
skill. Each party must have at least one rope about
30 fathoms long, made out of a strong raw cow-hide,
salted for the purpose, and cut circularly into three
thongs of equal length. These thongs, being closely
twisted together, form a threefold cord, able to sus-
tain a great weight, and durable enough to last two
generations. To prevent its receiving injuries from
the sharp edges of the rocks, it is covered with sheep-
skins dressed in the same manner. This rope is the
most valuable piece of furniture a St. Kilda man can
be possessed of; it makes the first article in the testa-
ment of a father ; and, if it fall to a daughter's share,
she is esteemed one of the best matches in the island.
By the help of these ropes, they examine the fronts
of the rocks. Linked together in couples, each hav-
ing the end of the cord fastened about his waist, they
go down and ascend the most dreadful precipices.
When one is in motion, the other plants himself on a
strong shelf, and takes care to have so sure a foot-
ing that, if his fellow-adventurer should make a false
step, and tumble over, he may be able to save him.
When one has arrived at a safe landing-place, he
seats himself firmly, while the other endeavours to
follow. Mr. Buchanan says: "A man from St.
Kilda told in a company where I was present, that
he was one of the four men that catched four itls, or
pens, being 300 each, in the whole 1,200 solan-geese,
in one night. That bird, after the hard toil of the
day at fishing without intermission, rising high in the
air to get a full sight of the fish that he marks out
for his prey before he pounces upon it, and each time
devouring it before he rises above the surface, be-
comes so fatigued at night, that he sleeps quite
sound, in company with some hundreds, who mark
out some particular spot in the face of the rocks, to
which they repair at night, and think themselves
secure under the protection of a sentinel, who stands
awake to watch their lives, and give the alarm, by
bir I bir! in time of danger, to awaken those under
his guard. The St. Kildians watch with great care
on what part of the island these birds are most likely
to light at night : and this they know by marking out
on which side of the island the play of fish are,
among which the geese are at work the whole day ;
because in that quarter they are ready to betake
themselves to sleep at night. And when they are
fairly alighted, the fowlers repair to the place with
their panniers, and ropes of thirty fathoms in length,
to let them down with profound silence in their
neighbourhood — to try their fortunes among the un-
wary throng. The fowler, thus let down by one or
more men, who hold the rope lest he should fall over
the impending rocks into the sea, with a white towel
about his breast, calmly slides over the face of the
rocks till he has a full view of the sentinel ; then he
gently moves along on his hands and feet, creeping
very silently to the spot where the sentinel stands
on guard. If he cries bir ! bir I the sign of an alarm,
he stands back ; but if he cries grog ! grog t that of
confidence, he advances without fear of giving an
alarm, because the goose takes the fowler tor one of