Topographical, statistical, and historical gazetteer of Scotland > Volume 1

ELGIN.
495
in liis ' Picture of Scotland,' " that this was by far
the most splendid specimen of ecclesiastical architec-
ture in Scotland, the abbey-church of Melrose not
excepted. It must be acknowledged that the edifice
i last mentioned is a wonderful instance of symmetry
and elaborate decoration ; yet, in extent, in loftiness,
in impressive magnificence, and even in minute deco-
ration, Elgin has manifestly been superior. Enough
still remains to impress the solitary traveller with
a sense of admiration mixed with astonishment."
Shaw, in his description of it, even ventures to as-
sert, that this " church, when entire, was a building
of Gothic architecture inferior to few in Europe."
" The prevailing impulse of the religion of the
period," observes Mr. Rhind, " led its zealous fol-
lowers to concentrate their whole energies in the
erection of such magnificent structures; and while
there was little skill or industry manifested in the
common arts of life, and no associations for promot-
ing the temporal comforts of the people, the grand
conceptions displayed in the architecture of the
Middle ages, the taste and persevering industry and
the amount of wealth and labour bestowed on those
sacred edifices, find no parallel in modern times."
When entire, then, and in its pristine glory, this
magnificent temple must have afforded a splendid
spectacle. A vast dome, extending from the western
entrance to the high altar, a length of 289 feet, with
its richly ornamented arches crossing and recrossing
each other to lean for support on the double rows
of stately massive pillars — the mellowed light stream-
ing in at the gorgeous windows above, and flickering
below amid the deep and dark shades of the pointed
aisles, while the tapers of the lit up altars twinkled
through the rolling clouds of incense — the paintings
on the walls — the solemn tones of the chaunted mass
— the rich modulated music of the choir — and the
gorgeous dresses and imposing ceremonies and pro-
cessions of a priesthood sedulous of every adjunct to
dazzle and elevate the fancy, — must have deeply
impressed with awe and veneration, a people in a
remote region, in a semi-barbarous age, and with
nothing around them, or even in their uninformed
imaginations, in the slightest degree to compare with
such splendour. No wonder that the people w T ere
proud of such a structure, or that the clergy became
attached to it ! It was a fit scene for a Latin author
of the period, writing on the " tranquillity of the
soul," to select, for his ' Temple of Peace,' and under
its walls to lay the scene of his philosophical dia-
logues.'
This great religious foundation owes its origin to
Bishop Andrew Moray, who is Raid to have founded
it on the site of an old church in the year 1224.
But after standing 166 years, the original fabric was
destroyed, in June 1390, by the lord of Badenoch,
Alexander Stuart, son of Robert II., usually called
the Wolf of Badenoch. From resentment against
the bishop, Alexander Barr, who had excommuni-
cated him, for keeping violent possession of church
property, this ferocious incendiary burnt the city,
'Maison I)ieu, the parish-church, and another edifice
devoted to religion, with IS houses of the canons,
besides the cathedral itself. His only punishment
was doing penance in the Black friars' church at
Perth, before the altar. Bishop Barr began soon
after to rebuild it, but many painful years were spent,
together with a third of all the revenues of the
bishops, ere that one dark day's disaster was re-
paired; and even after its completion, in 1506, the
great central tower fell down. This new misfortune
was also remedied,, however; and, from 1538, the
fabric continued in a state of perfect preservation till
the Reformation, ten years after which, in 1568, the
* Volusenus, Scotu3. De Tranquillitate.
privy-council actually had the execrable meanness to
appoint the Earl of Huntly, sheriff of Aberdeen and
Elgin, with some others, " to take the lead from the
cathedral-churches of Aberdeen and Elgin, and sell
the same " for the maintenance of Regent Murray's
soldiers ! The displeasure of Providence itself
seemed to be manifested at the base deed done by
these ultra-Goths, for so base a purpose ; for the
vessel freighted with the metal had scarcely left the
harbour of Aberdeen, on her way to Holland, where
the sacrilegious plunder was to be sold, than she
sunk with all her infamous cargo. Since that period,
the cathedral of Elgin, unprotected from the weather,
has gradually gone to ruin and destruction. Still,
however, do its splendid ruins amply justify even
the highest estimate of its original magnificence, and
constitute the chief amid the numerous attractions
of this limited but interesting city. Government
has latterly caused much attention to be paid in
clearing out the ruins f of this and other of our Scot-
tish cathedrals, and in preventing them from falling
into complete decay: this queen of ruins is there-
fore now more than ever an object of great and im-
pressive interest.
Like all similar fabrics of its time, the cathedral
of Elgin stood due east and west, and was built in
the form of a Jerusalem or Passion cross. The
choir and altar faced the east, or head of the cross,
with the branches, transepts, or cross wings, to the
north and south, and the grand entrance through the
western extremity, or foot of the cross. The grand
tower rose from its centre. The west gate, flanked
with two massive but elegant towers, and the chapter-
house, appended to the northern cloisters, with parts
of the transepts, are all tolerably perfect; the whole
displaying workmanship of the most intricate and ex-
quisite beauty. The western towers, however, form
the most entire part of the ruin. The great gate,
between these, is ornamented with fluted pilasters,
and above it is a central window, lancet arched, 28
feet high, and originally fitted up with mullions and
tracery. The great gateway is entered by a flight
of steps, and leads to the nave, which occupied the
centre of the church, where the numerous and splen-
did Papal processions took place, while the multi-
tudes who witnessed them were present in the aisles,
at the sides, which were separated from the nave by
rows of stately pillars, rising up to support the roof:
the foundations of these alone, and a few of the
pedestals, remain. Between the nave and the choir
where the sacred rites were actually performed, stood
the walls of the great central tower, and on each side
were the transepts. The choir extends eastward to
the chancel, in the sanctum sanctorum at the head of
the cross, where stood the grand altar. The chan-
cel was separated from the choir by a screen. The
grand altar stood beneath the eastern windows, and
was lighted up by a double row of five slender
windows, with pointed arches, — the whole sur-
mounted by a large wheel window, with rich orna-
mental tracery. The choir and nave were also light-
ed by a double row of windows with pointed arches,
the lower range being the largest, while both tiers
ran along the whole extent of the church. The win-
dows were filled with richly tinted glass, in various
devices, fragments of which have been found amongst
the ruins. The authors of the ' Sketches of Moray,'
have succeeded in effecting a very beautiful restora-
+ The public, we believe, were, at first, leas indebted to
privy-councils and governments than to the zeal and good taote
of the present superintendent, John Shank, who had do sootier
succeeded to his charge, in 1825, than he setpersonally to work,
and cleared out from the ruins no less than nearly 3,000 barrnw
loads of rubbish. Numerous dilapidated ornaments, figures,
torabs, and other objects, were thus discovered, or laid open,
and additional interest and gratification thereby afforded to the
visiter.