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72
GAP OP DUNLOE.
stands invitingly at the entrance to the Gap. It is now
inhabited by the reputed grand-daughter of the heroine, who
conveniently bears the same name, although not the same
charms as her prototype. Goats’ milk, seasoned with a little
potheen, will in all likelihood be offered here, and a gratuity
received in return.
THE GAP OF DUNLOE is one of those notable places
about which there exists so much diversity of opinion. It is
a wild and narrow mountain pass, between the range of hills
known as Macgillicuddy’s Reeks, and the Purple Mountain,
which is a shoulder of the Tomies. The entire length of the
defile is about four miles. The principal feature of the pass
is the height of the rocks which bound it, compared with the
narrow track of road, and the insignificant streamlet which
courses through it. “ On either hand,” writes Sterling Coyne,
“the craggy cliffs, composed of huge masses of projecting
rocks, suspend fearfully over the narrow pathway, and at
every step threaten with destruction the adventurous explorer
of this desolate scene. In the interstices of these immense
fragments a few shrubs and trees shoot out in fantastic shapes,
which, with the dark ivy and luxuriant heather, contribute to
the picturesque effect of the landscape. A small but rapid
stream called the Loe, traverses the whole length of the glen,
expanding itself at different points into five small lakes,
each having its proper name, but which are known in the
aggregate as the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes. The road, which
is a mere rugged footpath constructed on the frequent brink of
precipices, follows the course of the stream, and in two places
crosses it by means of bridges. One of these stands at the
head of a beautiful rapid, where the water rushes in whitening
foam over the rocky bed of the torrent. The part of the glen
which attracts most admiration is that where the valley
becomes so contracted as scarcely to leave room between the
precipitous sides for the scanty pathway and its accompanying
strand. The peasantry have given to this romantic pass the
name of ‘ the Pike.’ ” Mr. Inglis writes in a different strain.
“ The Gap of Dunloe,” says he, “ did not seem to me worthy
of its reputation. It is merely a deep valley, but the rocks
which flank the valley are neither lofty nor very remarkable
in their form; and although, therefore, the Gap presents many
features of the picturesque, its approaches to subfimity are very